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Fragment

before 1975

Iran or Iraq, in the style of the Buyid period (945–1055) or Seljuq period

(1037–1194)
Medium
Silk: lampas weave
Measurements
Overall: 38.5 x 67 cm (15 3/16 x 26 3/8 in.)
Credit Line
Gift of The Textile Arts Club and Andrew R. and Martha Holden Jennings Fund 1975.38
Public Domain
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Location
Not on view
Print

Description

This silk was originally reported to be one of several fragments from garments, shroud, and tomb covers unearthed during the early 1900s at Bibi Shahr Banu outside the ancient city of Rayy, a few miles from Tehran. The fragment preserves a beginning (or finishing) edge at the bottom and a small portion of selvage along the left edge.

The exceptionally beautiful design of this silk is filled with ornament. Even the spaces between the roundels containing birds and palmette trees and the octagons with inscriptions enclosing floral devices are ornamented with an intricate geometric pattern. Islamic art is, above all, decorative in accordance with Muhammed's dislike of representing living forms. In Iran, floral and animal motifs never ceased to be represented even after the Islamic invasion, but they were depicted in a highly ornamental fashion as seen here.
A horizontally long, muted brown silk lampas weave fragment features frayed edges and horizontal tears. Large circular medallions alternate with diamond shapes in repeating rows. Within each circle, symmetrical pairs of birds face a central plant. The diamonds feature a central six-petaled flower framed by script-like characters. These intricate motifs create a mirrored, rhythmic composition across the tan fabric, blending organic and geometric forms.

Fragment

before 1975

Iran or Iraq, in the style of the Buyid period (945–1055) or Seljuq period (1037–1194)

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