Long Shawl with Black Center and Exotic Four-Sided Gallery in Chinoiserie Style

1840s

India, Kashmir

Medium

wool; 2/2 twill tapestry (S), double interlocked, pieced, refreshed

Measurements

Overall: 332.8 x 139.6 cm (131 x 54 15/16 in.)

Credit Line

Gift of Arlene C. Cooper 2010.141

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Location

Not on view

Description

This expensive woven shawl has been refreshed—that is, its outdated designs have been replaced with beautiful new decoration. Overlapping pairs of botehs, or paisleys, enliven the original end panels (pallava) whereas the area around the central black rectangle was updated with an exotic four-sided gallery featuring ships, buildings, and flags that suggest Chinese influence. This stunning shawl is composed of seven almost invisibly joined pieces. One large section contains both ends and the continuous side borders while six pieces create the space in the middle. When the shawl was refreshed with the new chic gallery, black pigment—hardly visible—was applied along the edges of the central black section. The inscription may identify the textile’s quality or material content.