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Sep 4, 2019

Ceremonial Uniform: Armpit Gusset

1644–1911

Part of a set. See all set records

China, Qing dynasty

(1644-1911)

Satin weave silk with gold metal thread embroidery; supplementary weft; black velvet; metal (brass?); lined in blue silk

Overall: 26 x 27.6 cm (10 1/4 x 10 7/8 in.)

Weight: 60 g (2.12 oz.)

General Income Fund 1918.560.1.f

Location

not on view

Provenance

late 1916-1918

(Acquired by Langdon Warner in Korea, late 1916. Sold to the Cleveland Museum of Art)

1918-

The Cleveland Museum of Art, Cleveland, OH, 1918-present

Citations

Fales, William E. S. "Chinese Armor." The Collector 3, no. 18 (1892). In Trumble, Alfred. The Collector. New York City: Alfred Trumble, 1889. p. 285 www.jstor.org

Grancsay, Stephen V. "The George C. Stone Bequest: Chinese and Malayan Arms and Armor." The Metropolitan Museum of Art Bulletin 32, no. 6 (1937). In Metropolitan Museum of Art (New York, N.Y.), Jay I. Kislak Reference Collection (Library of Congress), and Metropolitan Museum of Art (New York, N.Y.). The Bulletin of the Metropolitan Museum of Art. 1905. p. 143-148 www.jstor.org

Bullock, Randolph. "Oriental Arms and Armor." The Metropolitan Museum of Art Bulletin 5, no. 6 (1947). In Metropolitan Museum of Art (New York, N.Y.), Jay I. Kislak Reference Collection (Library of Congress), and Metropolitan Museum of Art (New York, N.Y.). The Bulletin of the Metropolitan Museum of Art. 1905. p. 169-171 www.jstor.org

Nickel, Helmut. Warriors and Worthies; Arms and Armor Through the Ages. New York: Atheneum, 1969. p. 97-98

Dien, Albert E. "A Study of Early Chinese Armor." Artibus Asiae 43, no. 1/2 (1981). In New York University, and Museum Rietberg. Artibus Asiae. Hellerau, Dresden: Avalun Verlag, 1926. p. 5-66 www.jstor.org

Pang, Mae Anna. Dragon Emperor: Treasures from the Forbidden City. Melbourne: National Gallery of Victoria, 1988. p. 54-65

Jacobsen, Robert D. Imperial Silks of the Chʻing Dynasty. Minneapolis, Minn: Minneapolis Institute of Arts, 1991. figs. 20-22

Garrett, Valery M. Chinese Clothing: An Illustrated Guide. Hong Kong: Oxford University Press, 1994. p. 119-130, pl. 56-57

Schlombs, Adele, and Sybille Girmond. Meisterwerke aus China, Korea und Japan: Museum für Ostasiatische Kunst Köln. München: Prestel, 1995. p. 102-105

Hong Kong, Hong Kong Museum of Art, Oriental Ceramic Society of Hong Kong, and Liaoning Sheng bo wu guan. Jin xiu luo yi qiao tian gong. Hong Kong: Urban Council, 1995. p. 238-239

Musée du Petit Palais (Paris, France), Association Paris musées, Association française d'action artistique, and Gu gong bo wu yuan (China). La Cité interdite: vie publique et privée des empereurs de Chine (1644-1911) : les Musées de la ville de Paris, Musée du Petit Palais, 9 novembre 1996-23 février 1997. Paris: Paris musées, 1996. p. 130-144

Yang, Xin, Chengru Zhu, and Peter Keller. Secret world of the Forbidden City: splendors from China's Imperial Palace. Santa Ana, Calif: The Bowers Museum of Cultural Art, 2000. p. 27-28, 87-92

Dickinson, Gary, and Linda Wrigglesworth. Imperial Wardrobe. Berkeley, Calif: Ten Speed Press, 2000. p. 22-26

Jacobsen, Robert D., Evan M. Maurer, Robert Fogt, and Gary Mortensen. Imperial Silks: Ch'ing Dynasty Textiles in the Minneapolis Institute of Arts. 2000. p. 341-349

Robinson, H. Russell. Oriental Armour. Dover Publications, 2013. . p. 126-166

Vollmer, John. Ruling from the Dragon Throne: Costume of the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911). Berkeley: Ten Speed Press, 2002. p. 85-88

Christie's Hong Kong. The imperial sale, fine Chinese ceramics and works of art. Hong Kong: Christie's, April 29, 2002. p. 149, Lot no. 587

Sotheby's (Firm). Fine Chinese ceramics: including export art. London: Sotheby's, November 13, 2002. p. 17, Lot no. 17

Vollmer, John, Thierry Prat, and Richard Sheppard. Silks for Thrones and Altars: Chinese Costumes and Textiles: from the Liao Through the Qing Dynasty. Paris: Myrna Myers, 2003.

Ho, Chuimei, and Bennet Bronson. Splendors of China's Forbidden City: The Glorious Reign of Emperor Qianlong. London: Merrell, 2004. p. 110-119

Lemon, Jane. Metal Thread Embroidery. London: Batsford, 2004. p. 15

Gu gong bo wu yuan (China), and Qixian Xu. Gong ting zhen bao. Xianggang: Shang wu yin shu guan, 2004.

Sotheby's (Firm). Fine Chinese Ceramics & Works of Art: Including Fine Chinese Snuff Bottles from the Collection of Robert & Molly Hsieh. New York: Sotheby's, March 23, 2004. p. 173, Lot. no. 554

Rawski, Evelyn Sakakida, and Jessica Rawson. China: The Three Emperors, 1662-1795. London: Royal Academy of Arts, 2005. p. 156-167, 404

Christie, Manson & Woods International Inc. Fine Chinese Ceramics and Works of Art. New York: Christie's, March 29, 2006. p. 82-83, Lot. No. 282

Sotheby's Hong Kong, Ltd. Qianlong: sovereign, warrior, patron. Hong Kong: Sotheby's, April 10, 2006. p. 130-135, Lot no. 1539

Sotheby's (Firm). Fine Chinese ceramics and works of art. London, November 7, 2007. p. 284-285, Lot no. 487

Christie, Manson & Woods International Inc. The Imperial Wardrobe: Fine Chinese Costume and Textiles from the Linda Wrigglesworth Collection. New York: Christie, Manson & Woods International, March 19, 2008. p. 80-81, Lot no. 40

Sotheby's Hong Kong, Ltd. Legacies of the imperial power: treasures from the imperial collection. Hong Kong: Sotheby's, October 8, 2008. p. 78-83, Lot no. 2206

Bonhams & Butterfields. Fine Asian Works of Art. San Francisco: Bonhams & Butterfields, June 29, 2009. p. Lot no. 8124

Wilson, Ming. Imperial Chinese Robes: From the Forbidden City. London: V & A Pub, 2010. p. 61-65

Bonhams & Butterfields. Fine Asian Works of Art. San Francisco: Bonhams & Butterfields, December 13, 2010. p. 21, Lot no. 5024

Sotheby's (Firm). Fine Chinese ceramics and works of art. London: Sotheby's, May 11, 2011. p. 190, Lot no. 250

Christie's South Kensington, Ltd. Chinese Ceramics, Works of Art and Textiles. London: Christie's South Kensington, Ltd, November 9, 2012. p. 23, Lot no. 1045

Moll-Murata, Christine, and Ulrich Theobald. "Military Employment in Qing Dynasty China." In Fighting for a Living: A Comparative Study of Military Labour 1500-2000, edited by Zürcher Erik-Jan. Amsterdam: Amsterdam University Press, 2013. p. 353-392

Bonhams (Firm : 2001). Fine Chinese Works of Art. San Francisco: Bonhams, December 17, 2013. p. 124-125, Lot no. 8252

Li, Jian, Li He, Hou-mei Sung, and Ma Shengnan. Forbidden city: imperial treasures from the Palace Museum, Beijing. 2014. p. 48-49, 54-55

Bonhams (Firm : 2001). Fine Chinese Works of Art. San Francisco: Bonhams, June 24, 2014. p. 92-95, Lot nos. 8155 and 8157

Christie, Manson & Woods International Inc. Fine Chinese ceramics and works of art. New York, September 14-15, 2017. p. 60-63, Lot no. 939

Garrett, Valery M. Chinese Dress: From the Qing Dynasty to the Present Day. 2019. p. 26-31, 34

Feng, Linying. Qing dai gong ting fu shi. 2019.

Dien, Albert E. and Keith N. Knapp, ed. The Cambridge History of China, Volume 2: The Six Dynasties, 220-589. Cambridge University Press, 2019. In Twitchett, Denis Crispin, and John King Fairbank. The Cambridge History of China. Cambridge [England]: Cambridge University Press, 1978.

La Rocca, Donald J. "Asian Arms and Armour at the Met." Arts of Asia. March-April 2019. Arts of Asia. [Kowloon, Hong Kong]: [Arts of Asia Publications], 1971. p. 58-69

Christie, Manson & Woods. Fine Chinese ceramics and works of art. London, May 14, 2019. p.142-143, Lot nos. 186 and 187

Exhibition history

Korean Pottery, a Few Textiles, and Paintings (Gallery X). The Cleveland Museum of Art, Cleveland, OH (organizer) (August 21-October 3, 1921).

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{{cite web|title=Ceremonial Uniform: Armpit Gusset|url=https://clevelandart.org/art/1918.560.1.f|year=1644–1911|access-date=03 October 2023|publisher=Cleveland Museum of Art}}

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Ceremonial Uniform: Armpit Gusset

Ceremonial Uniform: Armpit Gusset

China, Qing dynasty

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